
A very few hours in Oslo poses the question of what to do. Walking on the Opera House roof is fun, watching the harbour is fun, getting lost around the castle is a bit trying, so we headed for what I have always felt to be one of the most amazing places anywhere – the Vigeland sculptures in their parkland setting. I was bowled over by these when I first saw them in 1966 and they remain totally impressive, from the circle of baby figures, to the avenue of active figures to the quieter groups round the amazing central pillar. I still find some of the pieces incredibly moving, particularly those showing older people or family groups

And so it got to early evening, and we went in search of the restaurant in the park, near the sculptures. Alas, the terrace was empty, the pavilion closed, but a handy sign pointed us round the corner to a new location, another, west-facing terrace, where I had one of the tastiest meals I have ever had in Norway, not a country normally famed for subtlety in cooking. (Bland and tasteless or very strongly fishy or cheesy). But this roast salmon on sweet potato with capers was absolutely wonderful. And not vastly expensive, either.