Stolen Hours in London

Hav­ing to go to Lon­don for work some­times involves a quick there and back but whenever I can I like to tag on some­thing for myself.  This time, by get­ting an early train I had time to nip to the V & A to see the 50 Years of Private Eye exhib­i­tion.  It’s quite small, two rooms off the Asian Sculp­ture, but is quite fas­cin­at­ing, with one wall covered with a dis­play of Ian Hislop’s favour­ite cov­ers and the oth­ers con­tain­ing framed ori­gin­als from all the many car­toon­ists who have sub­mit­ted to the magazine, includ­ing Rushton, Stead­man and Bird­sall from the earlier years.  Also some of the writs and let­ters from vari­ous wor­thies and their soli­cit­ors who found them­selves offen­ded by the Eye’s rev­el­a­tions of what they had been up to.  Keep up the good work.

Behind the V& A and the Bromp­ton Oratory there is a won­der­ful col­lec­tion of Mews ter­races — doubt­less noth­ing for sale under a mil­lion, but well worth delving into the maze of little streets and alleys between the Bromp­ton Road and Hyde Park Gate to find what I always think are the most inter­est­ing bits of Lon­don — the back ways.

To get to the work appoint­ment I had time to walk through Hyde Park — just about at the peak of Autumn love­li­ness with leaves turn­ing on the trees and car­pet­ing the ground. On the Ser­pent­ine one could still hire a ped­alo (if one wished — I hadn’t time) and there were a small num­ber of the tra­di­tional fea­tures around the rest of the park — horse riders on Rot­ten Row, nan­nies and their charges, though in fold-up push chairs now rather than the prams of yes­teryear, and the House­hold Cav­alry trot­ting back to bar­racks after the Chan­ging of the Guard.

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Holgate Bridge and Back

On enter­ing the Volun­teer we were struck imme­di­ately by the won­der­ful array of hand pumps at the back of the bar counter — so much to choose from — and a pint of Wharfedale Brewery’s York­shire Gold went down very well.  Early even­ing, so the pub felt quite spa­cious, room for darts, for some folk prop­ping up the bar, and com­fort­able seat­ing for the rest of us (not too many low stools, which don’t give the back much of a rest after a hard day at the bureaucracy).

Back across Hol­gate Bridge to the rumble of an arriv­ing train from the South and the whine of a 66 on a freight wait­ing for the road from the freight lines.  Some wag had amended the Crys­tal Palace’s A board to advert­ise a “poo” night but there was no evid­ence of that, at least in the saloon (apart from low stools) and the Sam Smiths bit­ter was well kept, and, as usual, absurdly cheap.  I sup­pose I shouldn’t be sur­prised that any­where called the Crys­tal Palace is quite brightly lit inside — but not glar­ingly so, prob­ably the poo play­ers in the other bar appre­ci­ated it.

The Bay Horse was hav­ing a quiz night, of which we missed the start, but we sup­plied one team with the answer “molyb­denum” then left before the answers were revealed, in case it was wrong.  The Black Sheep was pop­u­lar, and I tried some­thing from a Cornish Brew­ery, which was OK but broke my res­ol­u­tion of drink­ing only York­shire beer.

Hav­ing drunk as far as Corn­wall, order­ing the Paulaner Weiss­bier at the Brig­antes felt less sin­ful than it might, and it was deli­cious.  Unfor­tu­nately the Taylor’s Land­lord appeared to be “off”  which dampened the enjoy­ment of some of us.  Encour­agingly, the pub was very full, which it deserves to be con­sid­er­ing the range of beers, the good lay­out, and the food menu earlier on.  Let’s hope the Land­lord was an aberration.

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Schwabian Interlude 2. Arty stuff.

Some of the good things about S.W Ger­many grow on vines.  They make a delight­ful light and sweet red wine one could drink all night. We were there after the har­vest, and just before the vines had turned into the patch­work of ribbed col­our that is so char­ac­ter­istic of the end of the year.   Non­ethe­less — spectacular:

Karls­ruhe has an inter­est­ing art gal­lery.  A fine selec­tion of early Ger­man mas­ters, a good 19th and 20th cen­tury col­lec­tion, and some com­pet­ent if unspec­tac­u­lar loc­als. Reputedly, there are other fine things there, but half the museum was closed — we have this effect sometimes.

For­tu­nately, although the main Wurth Gal­lery at Schwaebisch-Hall was closed, we were able to see the church exhib­i­tion of Riemenschneider  15th cen­tury wood sculp­ture — just 15 pieces, but stun­ningly intric­ate and moving.

In Stut­tgart, an even­ing cel­eb­rat­ing the spon­sor­ship of IT in the Uni­ver­sity by local firms and wor­thies.  There was some music, which we had come to hear, includ­ing an avant-garde elec­tron­ic­ally aided piece based on 11 Sept 2001, which was excel­lent, but also four self-congratulatory speeches by said spon­sors and wor­thies, and an excess­ively long talk which as it was both about IT and in Ger­man left us numbed, hungry and in need of some of the pleas­ant and refresh­ing wine men­tioned above.

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Schwabian Interlude 1. Ferroequinological.

By train to South-West Ger­many.  East Coast did well so we had a full 45 minutes from arrival at Kings Cross to depar­ture from St Pan­cras, though a new rul­ing that you can’t take hot drinks through the secur­ity appar­atus for Eurostar led to a couple of hast­ily quaffed lattes.  Bruxelles Midi is not cent­ral, as you might expect from the name, but there’s an inter­est­ingly restored medi­eval gate to the city a few hun­dred yards away, and a very diversely eth­nic street mar­ket wind­ing up a small hilly suburb.

Deutsche Bahn looked as though it was going to do its cus­tom­ary impec­cable job until halfway between Bonn and Koblenz it was announced that we would be delayed by about 21 minutes because of a diver­sion.  In some respects this was inter­est­ing, in that it took us up the oppos­ite bank of the Rhine to the one which in the past the train has always fol­lowed, so we were able to look at a whole new set of castles and tight little towns. How­ever, 21 minutes is a lot longer than DB nor­mally sched­ules for a con­nec­tion so we ended up with nearly an hour to spare in Heidel­berg. Luck­ily the sta­tion book­stall had the largest selec­tion of magazines, Ger­man and inter­na­tional, that I have ever seen so 70 minutes delay at 8pm on a jour­ney that had star­ted in York at 6am was not too great a hardship.

We did a bit of trav­el­ling about — using a regional ticket which allows up to 5 people to go any­where in Baden-Wurrtemberg for a day for 29euros, by train, bus or tram.  Trams here are part of the S-bahn sys­tem, and travel really long dis­tances — a sort of inter-urban.  Sit­ting behind the driver Heil­bronn to Karls­ruhe brought back the days of the early Brit­ish Rail DMUs.

High­light now ! The South Ger­man rail­way museum at Heil­bronn.  Ex DB locoshed, nice round­house and turntable, fine selec­tioon of Ger­man steam locos, plus a Chapelon Pacific, which is not the one below — a DB P38 I think.

Delight­fully, two were in steam, includ­ing the massive 2−10−0 below.

We were at an event in the museum until late in the even­ing — hav­ing the two locos sim­mer­ing in the yard, ready for an excur­sion in the morn­ing, was highly atmospheric.

Back via Paris, and time for lunch between trains.  Unfor­tu­nately the Gare du Nord left lug­gage still hasn’t learned to cope with the num­ber of Eurostar users want­ing  to deposit bag­gage, so was full, and the streets and cafes around full of trav­el­lers lug­ging their belong­ings. For­tu­nately, the cafes seem to have adap­ted bet­ter and were happy to serve around cases, ruc­sacs and surf­boards (the last not ours).

 

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Transpontine Rambles.

Some weeks ago now, but little will have changed, I believe.  The Slip, on Clem­enthorpe, is a most pleas­ant and wel­com­ing place to visit these days — the Ilkley Bit­ter is much to be recom­men­ded.    The snicket through the flats devel­op­ment beside Skeld­er­gate Bridge, and thence across the water, bring one fairly quickly to The Phoenix, whose vir­tues I have sung here before, and which remain undimmed.  The Spreadeagle has gone through many vicis­situdes since it used to be York’s most pop­u­lar pub.  Its latest incarn­a­tion has at least restored it to the sort of place one might bear to drink in, and the gui­tar class in the back room was enter­tain­ing — one of our num­ber insisted on join­ing them to sing.  Pity the beer is all Mar­stons, though with about 5 dif­fer­ent beers to choose from most of us found some­thing to our lik­ing.  The pub will need to do some­thing spe­cial, though, to pull it back into the mainstream.

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Tommy at the Black Swan

A great pleas­ure to hear Tom McCon­ville, the New­castle Irish fid­dler and singer at the Black Swan. Mix­ture of tune sets and songs.  Lovely ver­sion of “Beeswing” and a great sin­galong “Battle of New Orleans” stand out. David Newey on very com­pet­ent gui­tar accom­pa­ny­ing Tom.

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A Touch of Evil

The Orson Welles film man­aged to over­come a poor copy (smudged sound) mainly because of the dra­matic cine­ma­to­graphy — clas­sic Welles with strange angles and light­ing and  a cast happy to ham up to the exager­rated types he rev­els in.  I’m still not sure who com­mit­ted the open­ing car bomb­ing or why but it prob­ably doesn’t mat­ter very much.

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Travelling Light with Tove Jansson

A volume of short stor­ies — “Trav­el­ling Light.”  But no one does, or can.  Other people bring you their bag­gage.  Dis­turb­ing and fas­cin­at­ing stuff

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Unwontedly Warm

Talk about going to Birm­ing­ham by way of Beachey Head.   Low Cat­ton via Escrick, Wheldrake,  Elving­ton, Sutton-on-Derwent and Wil­ber­foss is also pretty per­verse, and that was before a drop had been taken.  A glor­i­ous and unseason­ably warm autumn day — coun­tryside as beau­ti­ful as I have ever seen it in a com­bin­a­tion of low sun, leaves begin­ning to turn, har­ves­ted fields, plough­ing begun, and green still the pre­dom­in­ant col­our after the com­par­at­ively wet sum­mer.  At Low Cat­ton the Gold Cup inn was happy to serve a refresh­ing pint of Theakston’s bit­ter, and provide some tasty sand­wiches.  (Top Tip — go for the crusty roll ver­sion, it’s worth the extra quid to avoid the sliced ver­sion of bread.)  And so back via the old via­duct at Stam­ford bridge, across the fields to Dun­ning­ton, and the Tang Hall cycle track, now through the at last under way hous­ing devel­op­ment at Derwentthorpe, with nary a newt in sight.

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Portland Street Pedestrians get under way

Start at the Shoulder of Mut­ton on Heworth Green.  A fine pint of   York­shire Heart bit­ter  from Nun Monk­ton. They seemed to do a good saus­age and mash too. At the Tap and Spile, the unseason­able weather allowed us to sit out­side until after 9pm, enjoy­ing Roost­ers Yan­kee, and Tether Blond from Whar­fe­bank Brew­ery at Pool in Wharfedale.

Neither of the pre­ced­ing pubs was full to burst­ing, but we had to hunt for a seat at the Golden Slip­per, where vari­ous rooms held folk play­ing dom­in­oes, darts and draughts.  Good to see a city centre pub seem­ingly thriv­ing with tra­di­tional cus­tom­ers play­ing tra­di­tional games.  No-one seemed to be watch­ing the footy — though per­haps you wouldn’t find much interest in Spurs or an Irish team within the city walls of York.  The Deuchars was OK, but I’ve had it kept bet­ter.  And the Old White Swan was a rev­el­a­tion.  It used to be very much a lads pub, but it had a bril­liant if geri­at­ric jazz band, an appre­ci­at­ive, if geri­at­ric audi­ence, and both Jen­nings and Jaipur beers, inter alia.

 

 

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